Home' Hospitality Business : HB DEC 2017 - JAN 2018 Contents “My restaurant is famous for its traditional Toulouse sausage, which
we sell by the metre, quarter and half metre to share, with walnut and
wholegrain mustard and courgette pickles,” says Leslie. “I make my own
Toulouse sausage. The meat is big and chunky, not smooth like they
make it here.”
“Your family creates your palate,” says Leslie. “My cooking is just
from the heart – generous – just like your mum, and made with love. If
you don’t cook with love it doesn’t taste good.”
Kiwi chef Bruce Griffiths, of Christchurch’s Cookn With Gas and
The Astro Lounge, grew up in Invercargill dur ing the 70’s with a huge
family vegetable garden. “Whatever came out of the garden we ate and
the excess was pickled, bottled or tur ned into chutneys and relishes
by my mother,” he says. Bruce’s stepfather was the local butcher. His
mum’s cor ned beef, served with fresh vegetables and her famous tomato
relish was Bruce’s favour ite. Corned beef gratin with a beef mushroom
sauce and her ‘X-Factor Sauce’ is unr ivalled, he says. Bags of freshly-
picked beans and tur nip would land on the doorstep, alongside bags of
paua, oysters, crayfish, wild venison and mussels. “All that type of stuff
would be given to us. We knew no different.” Every Easter they’d go to
his uncle’s far m and kill geese.”
“When it comes to a finer style of cuisine I think my grandmother
has influenced me most with her three to five-course roast dinners,
r ich food and homemade puddings,” says Bruce. “It was probably more
to do with the adjuncts like mustard and good Yorkshire pudding with
“It’s good home cooking that we’ve moved away from like sago
puddings, pavlova, or knocking out amazing scones.” Bruce recalls he
was swiftly cor rected on dining etiquette when drawing pictures with
the cream drizzled through her golden syrup-based sago pudding.
After noon teas back then consisted of club sandwiches, dainty tarts
with brandy butter and sweet fruit mince tarts. His great grandmother also
tur ned out amazing suet pastries, suet puddings and treacle dumplings.
Bruce’s grandfather also had a huge garden and chickens. “My
upbringing had a big influence on my cooking.They knew the
products and the way of dealing with them.”
Preserving was big back then and ‘foraging’ was the nor m. “We’d
be driving around the countryside and all of a sudden the handbrake
would come on and Gran would have us all over the fence r ipping
off the local far mers’ apples and nectar ines, or raiding a field of
mushrooms. It was exciting and fun.”
Welsh-bor n Colin Ashton’s mum’s Five-Minute Potatoes and her
homemade Christmas puddings with brandy sauce take the cake for
him. Long-time Welsh restaurateurs, Colin’s parents now also live
in New Zealand, where Colin has Food at Wharepuke in Ker iker i.
Cooking’s in the blood with his chef dad placing second in the Welsh
Chef of the Year three times. “I got them to make me a whole lot of
Christmas puddings hot off the press this year. I was ver y lucky to prise
that recipe out of Mum,” says Colin. “It’s slow cooked for a long time.
She uses stout or Guinness in it. It’s r ich, dark, and extremely moreish.
Dad always puts the brandy on it and sets it alight. It’s a real showpiece
for our kids.” Served with brandy sauce and custard, it’s legendary.
Welsh Rarebit – toast topped with a sauce of cheese, milk/beer, egg
yolks and mustard - is also a childhood favour ite, as is Lobscouse - a
traditional Welsh recipe for a classic stew. The or iginal recipe stems from
the Norwegian Vikings who raided the Welsh coasts after the Roman
occupation. Colin grew up eating slow-cooked meats and broths.
“Those things influenced me. Mum and Dad both inspired me, because
they’re so passionate.”
Cultural her itage also has a huge influence on chef Charles Royal,
of Kinaki Wild Herbs, who grew up helping his mum in the kitchen.
“Mum was an East Coast Maor i from Waihau Bay and in those days
everything was grown and taken from the land.” Maor i gardening and
cooking traditions were passed down to Charles.
“My father was also a great influence, as a gatherer. He loved
diving for seafood kai – paua, kina and crayfish,” says Charles. “My
grandmother used to make kina pots. She’d take the little eye out in the
middle, clean everything out of the shell and get a whole lot of kina
roe, fill a shell and sit it on top of the embers of the fire. It was like a
soufflé,” he says. They’d make toast over the open embers and serve the
kina on top.
“Mum’s brothers supplied all of
His mother’s Pikopiko soda
bread, using pikopiko fern fronds,
and her pork belly boil-up served
with indigenous vegetables won
hands down for Charles. “I’d walk
into the house after rugby and
there was always pikopiko bread
with butter, soup, or Mum’s boil-
up, which you could smell straight
away.” The boil-up is a traditional
Maor i dish using meat hunted
by the family and food grown in
the garden. “They taught me to
take things from the earth and eat
sustainably,” says Charles.
Cur ing himself from diabetes
by improving his diet, Charles’
focus is mostly on indigenous
ingredients and native herbs,
like pikopiko, pirita (supplejack)
vine, and loads of vegetables. He’s
now a professional forager and
gatherer, taking groups into the
bush to identify edible native
plants then teaching them how to
tur n them into delicious food. n
Published by Potton & Burton.
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Photos courtesy of Kelly Lindsay
Mum’s Homemade Christmas Pudding with Brandy Sauce
Hospitality BUSINESS | December 2017 - January 2018 | 25
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